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- Time doesn't wait for anybody.
None of us has any time to waste.
They say time is money
but the things you can buy with money are cheap.
Time you can pay for,
but you can't buy any.
In spite of all our modern conveniences and technologies,
everybody tells you they don't have
time for this or time for that.
Well, of course they don't,
because they lose their perspective of the present.
The present is just a fleeting moment.
It comes, and then it's gone,
maybe without even being noticed.
We think about the past,
and nostalgia makes us sad,
or we worry about the future,
and are too anxious to be in the present.
The past and the future are just concepts
that exist in the present.
There's nowhere to go.
Nothing happens next.
You are already here.
- Good afternoon. - Hello.
How do you say cowboy, yeah, yeah, cowboy.
- There's a tough question.
Your hands numb yet?
- Yeah, it's cold.
- It's snowing, dude.
Here we go Craig, it's snowing.
- Here's the hunt for Red October.
It's like, how long would your body last
if you just ran out there in a Speedo
and a pair of swim fins.
Swam all the way out and back.
- Um, we came all the way from warm Hawaii
to come and surf in freezing cold Scotland.
- That's the quote of the trip right there.
- For sure.
I surfed in Alaska once,
but I never remember a thing like that.
- You know, check in a couple times a year,
and just think to yourself, what do you want to do.
- Wait, when did you win your first world title?
- 92.
- The year I was born.
- Yeah, just a little jump on you there.
- I remember what, being in like my early 20s
and catching waves on backdoor and pipe
thinking that there's no way in hell
I'll ever catch a wave better than that.
The bar's set so high now.
Whether or not I've already caught
the best wave of my life is, is the question that...
- You don't want to know.
- I don't really want to know the answer to,
I always want to be asking the question.
That's the question I've been asking myself
since I was a little kid.
- I feel like contests are so natural to me.
I can just show up, go to my work,
do my thing, and leave,
but knowing that I'm going on a trip with Dave,
yeah, I'm definitely a little bit nervous about this
because this is not really my specialty.
- From my own travels and meeting people,
it's just purely my own experience but,
it's that we don't really acknowledge each other
beyond just that accomplishment.
I feel like, great, you won that contest,
or great, you surfed this wave.
You don't go, hey, you know like,
the way you smile when you surf
lights up the whole line, that's so cool.
Thank you for doing that.
And you're just like, well that's just me,
I'm just doing that.
- When I look at photos, I'm like,
why am I smiling all the time?
Instantly, like as soon as I'm paddling out,
I'm just like, go out, this is sick.
It's like, yeah.
- I've always wanted to know if that was
something you think about, and it just is happening.
- Yeah, it just happens.
- This is the winner here.
- Here we go, let's go.
- Alright, ready? - Let's do it.
This is real race.
- Go!
- Go.
- Mine is light and nimble.
- Yeah, but his legs are shorter
than Tom Carold.
- What the fuck.
You know what I think?
That's what I think about that crap.
- That's a full brotherly tantrum right there.
- I didn't even think about that,
that we hadn't done a trip before.
- We haven't done a trip, huh?
We've just like surfed around and,
well I know we like the same kind of waves.
- Wait, do you still get nervous?
- In contests?
- Yeah.
- Sometimes.
Just, if I don't feel confident, I do.
- There's an expression in the psychology world.
If you spot it, you got it.
The judgments you make of others
are quite often reflections of yourself.
- If you get to a spiritual place within yourself
and you're competing and that's all connected,
that you're happy for the other guy when he beats you.
That's a hard place to obtain,
because if you're totally comfortable with yourself,
which is more important than winning something,
that you're happy when the other person wins.
- It's funny because I feel like Dave and I
are very similar people in a lot of ways,
but the paths that we've taken are so different.
- That's a skill I don't have.
- But you could though.
- Yeah, if there's enough incentive in it for me.
- If you could ride like tons
of different boards in every heat.
- Yeah, that would, that would probably help.
You've been on the road for probably 10 years maybe, yeah?
Nine, 10 years.
- Yes, this is my 10th year.
- And how does that, does it feel different?
- Yeah, I had a pretty one track mind for a lot of years,
just like, yeah, let's just surf and win,
and that's kind of it.
- If I could tell the 10 or 12 year old me
that I was going to get to do this trip,
just me and Dorian, I would literally lose my mind.
That was there.
I was like, you can't get much better than that.
- Ow, no, hey.
- I remember just being a little guy
and hearing that line, we should dance
like no one's watching, and it's just like yeah, totally.
That's just it.
How to surf, how I'm feeling to surf,
and if things come from that, awesome,
what a blessing, and if they don't, whatever.
I'm just having a grove in my own way,
and that's cool, too.
- Must be a pretty good dancer, then,
if you stand by that.
- I'm terrible.
- Nice to get the waves.
Doesn't always happen.
Did we want to show up on this trip
and drive around for three days in the rain
and get completely skunked?
That's now like what we would plan, right?
- I'm fine with it, though.
- And you just roll with it,
you roll with the punches, like,
you deal with that, and out of that comes
good things, I'm convinced.
- You have this idea of like
the ultimate wave of Jaws, you could be
waiting until you're 30 right now for that chance.
- Yeah, or it could be weeks.
- Or it could be weeks.
And you always have to be ready for that.
- So dry reef.
- Yeah, like a foot of water on the reef.
- It's not really a wave.
- You kind of blend the gender thing, you get rid of it.
It's like, yeah, I've always thought it was funny,
I mean, there's always the big complement,
you surf like a guy.
In my head, my most favorite male surfers to watch
are Joel...
- Surf like women?
- Yourself, Tom Curren.
And to me having that splash of femininity
is exactly what makes it so stylish.
It just looks magical.
To me, that's what style is.
- Did you ever compete?
- I competed.
Just wasn't built for it.
Have like guys paddling over me, and I'd be like,
aw, I don't need to fight you for this wave.
This isn't what it's about.
You go, you can have it.
- If I try and save my queen right now,
you're going to get me check in the next move.
- Uh huh, I am.
- I realized I won a few games on the last move,
and it just put this thing in my head,
don't ever count yourself out.
- Yeah, you never know.
- You're never out.
You don't know.
You could get, like surfing, you could get a 10
and a guy gets an interference and gets in your way,
you won somehow.
- For me, if I was at an event
and I would see a section,
and it was just a beautiful section
I kind of wanted to admire more than I wanted to
burn through, I'd just glide through it.
Aw, this feels amazing.
'Cause I used do that, and I'd just get destroyed.
4.2, 3.5, five.
- I just love it.
I love, I love like the test of seeing if
I still have what it takes.
You see yourself like being interested in it
once you're like in your 30s and closer to 40?
- Yeah.
I think a lot of guys are out there like antsing,
like, I gotta get it done right now, this winter.
Like it's El Nino or this is the swell.
But when you see guys that have a long career
with so many good waves over so many years,
it's just like, you can kind of take your time.
- You have 20 years.
- Yeah.
- What made y'all want to, was it the process
or the actual end result?
- Um, it was both, it was both,
and there were definitely years
where it was one or the other.
It wasn't always like both at the same time.
- Yeah.
- I, a lot of time...
- I think for me, though, like 100 percent,
like looking backwards, definitely the process
and not the end, like not the after.
- Yeah.
- I have that feeling like.
- Yeah, I think early on in my career
it was definitely the process.
I mean, I wanted to win the world title
in a really bad way, but to me it was like
I can't get there unless I get my process right.
Or like having pipe to yourself.
- Would you rather have a heat at firing
Cloudbreak by yourself or with one other guy,
or have a free surf with a couple of your friends?
- Yeah, probably free surf, I guess.
I don't know, 'cause it's also like,
that's our one stage, you know,
like to kind of show the world what we have or whatever.
Look it, my guy came back.
He crawled back in from the ocean.
- Everyone's rushing to become something,
but it's like no, there's a natural progression
that you just evolve into who you are
and it's never going to be probably what you set out to be.
It could be completely different,
but you just have to be open to it.
- I grew up idolizing Tom Curren.
- Yeah.
- And I was like, I want to surf like him.
I'd try to hold my arms like him.
I did these like head snaps and stuff,
and then I think at some point I realized
I'm not fucking Tom Curren.
- Exactly.
- I have a different approach,
I have a different foundation and I think differently.
I'm not the same personality.
- Yeah, different things calm me down,
different things get you psyched up.
- But you also have, if you're trying to be someone else,
if you're not offering the world what you have
for people to see.
- Yeah.
- His holiness the 14th Dalai Lama was once asked
what surprised him most about mankind,
and he answered, "Man, because he sacrifices his health
"in order to make money,
"and then he sacrifices his money to regain his health.
"He lives as if he's never going to die,
"and then dies, having never really lived."
- If we actually look at the state of the world now
and yes, we live in one of the most peaceful times
between each other in terms of war and conflict,
we actually live in the most violent time
between ourselves and the planet.
Like we're just literally destroying the place
that looks after us.
The weight? 5?
The dog escaped. Bella, catch Estrella!
- What would you be doing if you didn't surf?
Would you be a fisherman?
- I don't like, uh, blood, yeah.
- I hung out with this chef in Brazil.
He had this tank, and there was all these fish
swimming around in it, and there was a duck sitting on top.
You take the fish out of the water,
and no one really phases, right?
You see a fish out of the water, it's like
flopping around, you know, kind of.
It's like gasping for air.
- Struggling.
- And the whole audience didn't really care.
And then he grabbed the duck, and stuck it underwater.
And everyone freaked out.
Because...
- Did the exact same...
- And they're like, you're killing him.
And he's like, well, what's the difference?
- No difference at all.
- This is getting deep, sorry.
- Who would you rather be, the duck or the fish?
- Where's the blob?
Should have got that thing out today.
- Ready?
Oh.
- I feel like that should have gone farther out.
- Is that a good wave, is it a totally shitty wave,
is it rideable, is it unrideable?
- Yeah.
- It's the whole experience of just trying
to like go out there and just wing it and see if it's...
- See if it's a wave.
- The traveling is getting better for me
because I'm opening more up and excited to think
oh cool, I wonder what is around the corner
that will happen next.
- I might have been your age, a little bit older,
when I was just like, yeah, sure, let's go.
- Where are we going?
- Craig's just, are you the yes man?
- Yeah, I just go along on it for the ride.
- He's the yes man, he's just like yeah, I'm in.
We almost hit.
That was pretty close.
I could see the fear in your eyes.
- I didn't look at that.
- Oh, that was heavy.
- For me, surfing actually can be the perfect
type of rite of passage where we have
these distinct moments where you're different
after you experience it.
You're like, okay, I'm going to do this forever.
- Much like our bodies, our minds love to wander.
When our thoughts drift, maybe to something at work,
we fail to notice a set approaching on the horizon,
or the changing of the tide.
- I think my phone is
the biggest part of stress in my life.
- Like I'm kind of addicted to my phone,
but when I get away from it, it's so nice.
- Yeah, in a way it's kind of cool
just to let it all go.
- I'm getting pretty good at darts, you guys.
We've been shooting this for a while.
Come on.
- When you're a kid, you're just like fuck it,
I'm 18, I have nothing to lose.
And when you get married and have kids
and that kind of stuff.
- Because I don't know how much longer
I'll feel comfortable on waves like that.
- Oh, there you go.
- Oh, is it in?
- If you give a really good slab surfer
like a blank canvas and said like
design something that you really want to surf,
like the optimum slab,
like what would it look like,
what would it look like all around it,
what would the reef look like, how would it be shaped?
It's like it was designed by somebody with a big planer.
Got the cliffs above it are like a big amphitheater
and there's like these natural
built-in stairs all the way down.
Some of those waves are better off left alone.
- Holy shit, that was the one.
On the back, on the back.
Yee-hoo, that was a good one.
It would be radical by yourself,
but it's so much better to surf dude.
- Holy.
Holy shit.
Well yeah, that was like
as scary as a wave that big can get, probably.
- It's like almost as scary as Jaws
in the waves were like just overhead.
- I think what makes a good trip is
just the people you hang out with.
- Yeah, if you're going to sit in a car
and drive for 12 hours, you're not
ripping each other's heads off.
You're laughing about it.
- The message here is that life is for living.
If you have the intention to live each moment
to the fullest, even if you miss a few waves along the way,
you're still doing good.
- Does that count?
- No.
Hundred percent out.
If you come to find out who you are
Then may you find out, may you find out who you are
And if you come to search for what is lost
Then may you find it, may you find it at any cost
And if you come
Over from far
May it not touch you, or ever do you harm
And if you come
Oh so soft
You may look up one day and you'll be hard
If I were to die today
Slaughtered in that masquerade
The last thing that you'd hear me say
Put my body on display
In the parade
Passing slowly through the town
My feet, they cannot touch the ground
Of the parade
All of my friends were there
Waiting on me
All
The glory was there
Waiting on me
And I was there
Waiting on me
I have come
And I will go
Just to stay
In
- Are you, have you gotten to a point yet
where you get burnt out?
- Check.
- Oh no.
I haven't, I don't have a finger up yet.
I got two moves I can do.
I got to practically flip a coin here.
- Actually that's not a bad move.